“There’s not really a theme this time,” Anna Sui joked amid her resort collection look book shoot. And yet, there was.
“I started out preppy, so you’ll see some preppy stuff this time, but of course, it went very Anna,” she added. Bingo.
Through her incredibly rich archive — which the designer has been referencing as of late — Sui redux became the center point of her latest designs. In addition, images of Mary Blair’s colorful storyboards for Walt Disney, as well as ’60s Ladybug-illustrated fashion ads adorned her seasonal mood board. The result was a mixture of signature grunge, sporty prep and flirty party-minded ideas with smart archival nostalgia.
Sui’s fall 1998 collection became part of the season’s inspiration, resulting in redux Princess frosted velvet dresses with marabou trim. There was even a “full-on glam for the beach” moment with velvet maillot, styled beneath a micro iridescent sequin cover-up with elbow-length gloves. A 1993 black velvet duster reappeared over little lace-trimmed lingerie and babydoll T-shirts boasting Sui’s mushroom logos from the ’90s, while her signature bold prints were splashed onto sporty-meets-girly sets, jumpsuits and preppy polo dresses in sweatshirt fabric.
Nineties slipdresses (another nod to her archive) came long and short with lace inserts or iridescent sequin decoration, styled with fishnet tights and varying toppers (a grunge granny cardigan, lace cardigan or marabou-trimmed duster). Boyish suits were styled with sheer ruffled shirts or came in cute cropped proportions (a black blazer, vest and short) with allover quilted satin hearts. The key to the collection’s modernized take on era-spanning nostalgia was ample youthful layering — Sui styled the looks with matching hats, playful jewelry, tonal velvet creepers and plenty of crochet layers, which the designer noted she was currently “completely obsessed” with.
“Party, grunge, sporty. That’s how you want to look now,” Sui said.