For fall, Brunello Cucinelli believes there is “a return to clean lines, more rigorous, but not basic.”
In fact, basic is certainly not a word that comes to mind when eyeing Cucinelli’s silk or mohair blouses delicately embroidered by hand with sequins or a cashmere openwork pullover enriched with an edelweiss pattern and with no stitches — also made by hand.
A stunner was a macramé knit with braids and knots that were all made by hand without the use of knitting needles — a piece that takes numerous hours to make and costs $10,000.
That said, similarly to his recent menswear collections, Cucinelli is also endorsing and embracing a return to a more tailored and sartorial look. He showed easy and relaxed silk pants worn with fluid silk blouses and boxy jackets.
There was also a British countryside vibe running through the collection, rich in handcrafted tactile effects, twisted wools, bouclé effects and soft, furry and fleecy surfaces. Blouses with regimental stripes were styled under tennis-style V-necked sweaters, accessorized with a tie, and over pleated miniskirts.
At the same time, Cucinelli juxtaposed these looks with shiny surfaces, as in silk flared or midi column skirts.
He underscored lightness was key, and this was further telegraphed by the earthy color palette in winter whites and beiges — with only a touch of blue.
For evening, he revisited slipdresses from the 1990s with 3D embroideries.
This was a collection entirely in sync with Cucinelli’s vision and will no doubt speak to the brand’s loyal customers — and then some.