Of any designer working today, Peter Dundas may be having the most fruitful dialogue with the red carpet.
The Belgian with creative director stints at Roberto Cavalli and Emilio Pucci under his belt, launched his namesake label in 2017 via Beyoncé’s Grammys wardrobe, and hasn’t stopped since. He recently created the yellow jumpsuit worn by H.E.R. at this year’s awards, and dressed Cardi B, Joanne Smalls and Natasha Poly at Cannes, with versions of their looks now shoppable on Revolve through his partnership with the e-commerce juggernaut.
Relocated to Los Angeles, he now spends about 50 percent of his time dressing celebrities.
“It does drive business. I always try to create a creative connection between the two as well. A lot of the celebrity dressing I do is straight from the collection, or if it’s something on the red carpet, it’s inspires me. I have one dress called the Nirvana, with an open back that winds around, at least 10 celebrities have worn it which makes it an important part of the collection,” he said, noting his philosophy of carrying over pieces that work, rather than reinventing everything.
“A lot of my inspiration comes from images of celebrities and people from the music business, so my aesthetic already connects to what they do. I like clothes that are visible and sexy.”
He nailed that for resort 2023, taking inspiration from the ’90s supermodel era and casting his friend Heidi Klum as his look book muse.
Towering on heels in front of the L.A. skyline, Klum introduces Dundas’ first swimwear, with sultry cutout, wrap and strap details, harking back to images by Helmut Newton.
Several versions of the famed front and side lacing minidress worn by a pregnant Rihanna in Barbados over Easter Weekend made it into the collection — in hot pink, and as a long black gown to name two.
They fit very differently on Klum, who has also already worn a version of the dress in public, and that’s the point, the designer said. “I pride myself on wanting women to feel great no matter their shape or age. I dress royals who are in their 80s, I dress models and I dress Lizzo; it’s wonderful to make someone feel confident and comfortable with clothes.”
Jersey jumpsuits with cutout crisscross bra tops like one recently worn by Cardi B, “jungle camo” bandeau tops and leggings and two knockout embellished minidresses in crushed velvet with lacquered lace side panels, or ombre effect perspex mirrors, were on offer for those for whom the world is a stage.
More subtle, at least for Dundas, an emerald green caftan-jumpsuit, black jersey halter gown with side cutouts and thigh-high slit, and a hot pink tuxedo jacket looked good. “I actually start every collection with a suit; that’s the way I was brought up in fashion. My first job was with Jean Paul Gaultier and he cut jackets like nobody’s business, so I still have that discipline.”
Dundas is devoted to America for now, continuing to grow his high-end business as well as the lower priced collection with Revolve.
“Their client base is similar to ours but younger and with a smaller pocketbook. It’s more accessible but the quality is amazing, and I have high standards,” he said of the apparel. “They also work a lot with analytics, so they know their clients well.”
