A 2001 Iceberg campaign photographed by David LaChapelle inspired the fierce collection James Long conjured to make a comeback to the runway format after a three-year hiatus.
In the image, a naked Pamela Anderson appears on the back of a yellow motorbike, her arms wrapped around her mysterious rider in a full leather look, both speeding away from paparazzis.
Long started from that biker vibe to dress both genders this time, opening the coed show with a plethora of faux leather looks, from ultra-padded hooded jackets to jumpsuits worn as pants and tied at the waist.
As the lineup progressed, the designer’s penchant for mixing materials and different styles surfaced. Knit inserts clashed with leather to offer new takes on biker jackets and utilitarian puffers, while mohair long coats and hoodies added a cozy feel. Meanwhile, tailoring transitioned from clean cuts to a punkish vibe via zipper constructions, and the color palette switched from total black to all-burgundy looks, which made for the best section of the show.
A series of white miniskirts, voluminous faux shearling coats and puffers acted as palate cleanser before the layering game got heavier in looks that winked to the London influence Long has been imbuing in Iceberg since taking over the creative helm. Yet with all the mix of textures, tie-dye prints and big volumes, these outfits were a little bit too much.