Jeremy Scott has a romantic view of travel from back in the day and that feeling of nostalgia that informed his men’s resort collection for Moschino.
“I was thinking about resort itself,” he said, “and vintage airline travel from the late ’60s and ’70s that felt more glamorous.” From the colorful seats to the carry-on bags, Scott envisioned “a chic, funky jet set.”
What that translated into is a “slightly psychedelic” assortment of patterns and prints that the designer emblazoned on everything from hoodies and double-breasted blazers to Speedo-style swimsuits and sarongs. He paired the clothes with Pan-Am-inspired bags, briefcases and totes with the same sensibility.
Several of the looks included traditional tailoring silhouettes that Scott offered up in both the bold prints as well as more staid solids that made a statement by being shown alongside the eye-popping patterns. He also showed an assortment of loose, wide-leg pants that looked both modern and archival at the same time.
“It’s a new way to approach this kind of dressing,” Scott said.
Highlights of the collection, which he called “Unimaginable,” included a shawl-collar suit in an artistic swirly print that Scott also used on ties, a camp shirt, coat and briefcase, as well as a tie-dye pink denim jacket and coat that looked like snakeskin. The designer offered up a jacquard suit, patterned puffer coats and an assortment of embroidered mirrored appliqués that he applied to jackets, sarongs and tuxedos, albeit Moschino-style tuxedos.
Scott, who has been creative director of Moschino since 2013, said he plans to hold a men’s show in Milan in June, the first time he’ll allow his men’s collection to stand on its own.
“I did a men’s and women’s mixed show five years ago but this will actually be the first time I ever had one for just men’s. I won’t be including any women’s at all. I used to feel I needed women’s to give it a little punch. But men’s has changed dramatically in the last eight years or so. There’s more flamboyance and boldness and I think there’s a market and a need for stronger, more interesting, progressive menswear.”
