In 2019, Victor Glemaud visited Hauser and Worth’s John Chamberlain small sculpture exhibition “Baby Tycoons.” When designing his resort collection, Glemaud recalled the series and was inspired by the works’ juxtaposition of playfulness and hardness, as well as the artist’s approach to materiality and impactful use of color, which he sought to emulate through his ready-to-wear.
“Now that we’re doing runway shows, in resort, we can really focus on true knitwear,“ he said during one of his seasonal collection shoots — his second took place at Vesuvio Playground in SoHo, where the designer grew up and currently resides, and features R&B artist Amber Mark as the face of resort’s look book.
“I always think the collection is things you don’t have in your closet, it might look familiar, but add a jolt to your closet, and you can put it on with what you’re wearing, which is really important. Real clothes.”
The result was a focused assortment of dynamic knits that mixed sensual appeal with a playful spirit through optimistic, bright colors. For instance, body-hugging knits with colorful vertical stripes placed to sculpt the body, the return of color-blocked layers (like a sporty black-and-white shrunken ribbed cardigan with matching hot shorts) or monochromatic merino bodysuits, skirt sets and dresses with sophisticated cutouts and innocent knotted tie details.
For evening, Glemaud expanded on his cut and sew offering with the same appeal, enriching sensual ponte dresses with flirty power mesh inserts. A cross-back red number boasted a cheeky, upside-down tonal ponte heart on the bum (which will also be produced in white — perfect for the sexy bride), while a little black dress with V-shaped mesh insert below the bust subtly exposed the body down the sides and along the skirt hem.
“They’re sexy yet covered, which is the beauty of this true group,” he said. “What we’re learning from cut and sew, which we’re just starting to sell now with spring, is that it needs to be really fun, really impactful, sexy, and easy….It’s easy to integrate, it’s approachable and accessible in terms of price and fabrication.”
Overall, the collection offered ample wearability, melding polished ease with sculptural sex appeal.